Woke up at 6:30am and had a quick breakfast and we quickly got moving as we know a storm may moving in anytime today. It was overcast, but we still could see enough to move on. 15 minutes into the day we found our last water source for awhile, so we stocked up. We crossed a couple snow fields before needing to put on crampons for the next to steep sections. Today we are expecting to climb up Middle Cascade Glacier and go through Spider-Formidable Col which is the East side notch. There are two places that can be crossed but since 1991, no one has admitted to crossing the West notch.

We arrived at the glacier around 9:30am and started to climb maybe 200-300 yards up until the fog surrounded us and we couldn’t see anywhere. We stopped at a rocky section that was actually somewhat flat and would be a great place to hang tight until it either cleared up or the other two climbers caught up with us and decide if we want to continue.

Losing visibility

Around 10:00am, the rain started to fall and we decided to set up our tents and keep dry in case we end up being stuck for awhile. The winds started to pick up and we are guessing this is the storm we were expecting. This will set up back a day if we can’t go anywhere and being there are large crevasses in the glacier and all guide books say to rope up.

A break in the weather

Made top roman around noon and still no sign of the other climbers. Can’t see anything in any direction and we are starting to accept the fact we are stuck for at least a day. We both have plenty of food and while I’m sure we can attempt to get to the top and over, would rather be safe and late and not rush and do something that can’t be reversed. Brien is inside his tent reading a book and I am playing Solitaire in my tent. We both are warm and dry as the rain keeps falling and winds are blowing us around as we are in a very exposed spot. At 1:00pm I popped my head out to see a curious hummingbird who greeted us and flew circles around our tents. Was not expecting to see on of those this high up and away from vegetation.

30 minutes later we located the two climbers in the snow working their way towards us. They took a much lower route than us. By 2:15, they made it to us. They left Kool Air Lake at 11:00am and they are following a GPS to find their way through the fog. They said they were keep following their GPS and get to Ying Yang Lakes before dark and offered if we wanted to follow. We thanked them but declined. They are roped together and by the time we pack up, we are still cutting it close with daylight. They were on their way by 3:10 and within a few minutes you could no longer see them as they disappeared quickly into the thick fog and up the glacier. Five minutes later the sky opened up and started dumping rain. I am glad we decided to stay now. I think they may turn around cause they did ask if there was room for two more tents if they needed. (They never came back)

Off they go

Heavy rain lasted till 5:00pm and the strong winds continued to pummel us until about 6:00pm. Everything started to calm down and I walked around outside for a little bit to stretch my legs and see a whole 20 yards in any direction around me. Didn’t take long for the rain to come back and send me running back inside my tent. It’s 48 degrees inside my tent which is plenty warm enough to fall sleep no problem. Back to sleep at 8:00pm, which didn’t last long as I was woken at 9:45pm to the sounds of strong winds crashing into my tent and heavy downpour. Big Agnes Flycreek UL1 is an amazing tent I will say. I have used this tent for over three years including on the PCT and have always been dry and protected from winds with no structure failure. I enjoy the sounds of the winds and rain hitting my tent. It helps that I am dry, but something about those sounds that I enjoy and also help me sleep (Even if I do get woken up at times). Kinda like sleeping next to a river.